Poetical Movement
In musical terms, building a footpath is akin to creating
a lyric masterpiece.
Santiago Calatrava
An
exploration of Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava’s own language, Dina JSR’s
third collection unfolds through delicate volumes, constructed as a replica of
Calatrava’s most successful works: a pathway opens up over a bare back, a
corrugated roof reproduced through architectural folds, an over-head archway
inspiring a geometric winged yoke...
Structured,
here, by an anatomic framework, silhouettes take on small fins that underline
the bust or mark off shoulders. In their wake, organic folds repeat in a fluid
movement along the length of the dress, where as others delicately wind and
unwind, recalling the meticulous ruffs worn by Catherine de Medicis.
Even
on the surface, an architectural minerality prolongs the metaphor: a color
chart of pearly grays doubles off with a palette of metallic shades full of
sparkling transparency, bronze silk, antique gold embroideries and lurex crêpe
- all compose a shimmering picture. Far from being atonal, the collection is
awakened, in delicate strokes, by azure blue corseted lines, absinthe green and
a canary yellow, all of which enliven the harshness of the cuts.
Like
a cloud that softens a soaring of concrete, a handful of ethereal dresses,
effervescent in their impressionist gazar suits impose themselves with lyricism
and elegance. From one model to the next, a balance appears revealing tight
lines, rhythmic architectural yokes, undulating folds and fleeting spirals.
Orchestrating
a vocabulary of its own, Dina JSR’s third collection prolongs the encounter
between architecture and femininity, spatial construction and fluidity to
define its very own ‘Poetical Movement’.
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